Custom watch care: preserving your unique timepiece

A custom watch requires the same care as any brand-name watch. A few simple habits are enough to keep it in good condition for years.

After each day of wearing, a microfiber cloth wipe on the case and strap removes sweat and fingerprints. Sweat is acidic and attacks finishes over time, even on stainless steel. A quick 30-second cleaning every evening makes a real difference long-term.

If your watch is water-resistant (100 meters minimum), you can rinse it with lukewarm water after a day at the beach or pool. Salt and chlorine are corrosive. Rinse, dry with a soft cloth, let air dry. Never use a hair dryer, heat can damage gaskets.

Sapphire crystal is virtually scratch-proof in daily use, but can accumulate micro-traces of grease. Cleaning with a lens cloth is sufficient. Mineral crystal scratches more easily. If micro-scratches accumulate, light polishing by a watchmaker can restore original clarity.

An automatic movement is a mechanical mechanism with dozens of interacting parts. Like any mechanism, it needs periodic maintenance.

For Seiko NH35 and NH36 movements, the recommendation is a full service every 5 to 7 years. This service includes complete caliber disassembly, cleaning of every component, replacement of lubricating oils, replacement of wear parts (mainspring if needed), reassembly and accuracy adjustment.

Service cost ranges from 80 to 200 euros depending on the watchmaker. Some owners choose to replace the entire movement rather than service it. A new NH35 costs 30 to 40 euros, which can be more economical if the current movement shows advanced wear. A competent watchmaker will advise on the best option.

Between services, a few signs should alert you. Accuracy loss exceeding 30 seconds per day indicates a movement needing attention. An unusual noise (friction, clicking) signals a mechanical issue. Diminishing power reserve (the watch stops after less than 30 hours without wearing) suggests a tired mainspring.

The strap is the watch part that takes the most wear. In direct contact with skin, exposed to sweat, shocks, friction. Its maintenance determines the ensemble's lifespan.

A leather strap lasts 1 to 3 years depending on wearing frequency. Avoid water contact (remove the watch before showering or swimming). Let the strap breathe overnight rather than storing in a closed box. If leather stiffens, a drop of leather balm (not shoe cream) softens it. When leather shows cracking or odor, it's time to replace.

A steel bracelet is more resilient but accumulates dirt between links. Monthly cleaning in a bowl of lukewarm water with mild soap and a soft toothbrush removes deposits. Dry each link thoroughly. Micro-scratches on brushed steel are part of natural patina. If they bother you, a watchmaker can re-brush surfaces.

The steel case cleans the same way. Be careful with pushers and crown: never operate them in water, even if the watch is water-resistant. The crown gasket is a weak point. Gaskets should be replaced every 2 to 3 years, or each time the case back is opened.

If you own multiple watches or don't wear your piece daily, storage matters as much as maintenance.

Store your watch in a case or padded pouch. Direct contact between two cases causes scratches. Dust infiltrates everywhere, even in water-resistant watches. A closed case protects from sunlight (UV fades dials and ages leather straps) and humidity.

For automatic watches, a watch winder keeps the movement running when you're not wearing it. This is useful if your watch has a date complication: without a winder, you'll need to reset the date each time you resume wearing. For an NH35 without date, a winder isn't necessary. Set the watch down, it stops, pick it up and it restarts with a few wrist movements.

Avoid storing watches near powerful magnets (speakers, magnetic clasps, phones). Automatic movements are sensitive to magnetism, which can disrupt accuracy. If your watch suddenly gains or loses significant time, a watchmaker visit for demagnetization solves the problem in minutes.

Ideal storage temperature is room temperature. No freezer, no car in direct sunlight. Extreme temperature swings cause condensation inside the case, even on water-resistant watches.